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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Pink with an orange rim and a vigorous mousse. Deep cherry, berry skin, spiced nuts and flowers on the nose, brightened by blood orange and smoky minerals. Taut, finely etched red berry and citrus flavors gain flesh with air, taking a turn to bitter cherry, toffee apple and yellow plum. Sappy, lightly chewy and concentrated,…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Fairly pale color. Hint of licorice on the nose. Moderately viscous and fresh in the mouth; has decent weight and texture but lacks personality. The slightly harsh finish betrays some alcohol. Perhaps not quite enough supporting extract here.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(100% sauvignon blanc, 14.5% alcohol) Extremely fresh, deep nose combines quinine, ginger, minerals and citrus fruits, with white peach and honey notes that suggest viognier (I could not possibly have guessed that this wine was entirely from sauvignon blanc). Rich, honeyed and powerful, with superb fat and depth of flavor. Notes of peach, citrus fruit,…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux was picked on 24 and 25 August after rain had lent more acidity and freshness. The pH is low at 3.10. It has a delightful bouquet with enticing scents of green apple, white peach and pressed flowers, conveying a sense of energy and playfulness. The palate is very…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The team at Château Margaux, like last year, decided not to dispatch a sample of the Pavillon Blanc, as they felt it would be too unstable. Trust that I will taste it when I can.

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Pape-Clement Blanc has a seductive, creamy bouquet with crème brûlée, peach skin scents developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a thick veneer of new oak, creamy and commercial, not a dry white with scintillating terroir expression but you still find yourself taking sip after sip of this heady wine….