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Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 22 to October 9 with a modest 13.4° alcohol. This has long been a great Margaux. It is very delineated and yet very generous on the bravura bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone, cedar and a touch of mint. The palate is fresh and bursting with energy right…

Pol Roger: 2022 New Releases (Mar 2022)

The 2013 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is fabulous. Rich and remarkably pure, the 2013 is super- expressive right out of the gate. Bright saline notes cut through a core of lemon confit, dried flowers, apricot, tangerine peel, mint and sage. As compelling as the 2013 is, it really needs more time to open a…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

So far I have tasted two bottles of the 2011 Comtes de Champagne. The first was strongly vegetal, with angular contours and virtually no fruit; the second was unyielding and compact, with no mid-palate and no finish to speak of. To say the 2011 is far off the mark would be a massive understatement. Perhaps,…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(78% cabernet sauvignon, 14% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 5.4 g/l total acidity; 13.2% alcohol): Dark ruby-red. Ripe blackcurrant aromas and flavors are lifted by pungent graphite, cedar and mineral notes. Balanced, pure and smooth in the mouth, with excellent perfume and precision. Finishes long and pure, with lingering cassis and leather…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Lynch Bages has a simple nose that to be honest, would be outshone by even modest recent vintages. Light tobacco and smoke-tinged black fruit, pencil shavings and a slight starch-like scent emerge from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. It lacks the cohesion and svelte texture of recent vintages, a…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Pungent aromas of currant, lead pencil, minerals, cedar and herbs. Penetrating but sweet, with perfumed inner-mouth aromas and lovely clarity of flavor. Finishes with dusty, even tannins that spread out nicely to coat the palate. Classic claret. I’ve liked this wine more each time I’ve tasted it.