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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

The 1997 Opus One tastes like it was made yesterday, not 16 years ago. One of the most opulent, racy wines in this vertical, the 1997 literally explodes from the glass. Juicy dark red cherries, menthol, tobacco and licorice all make an appearance as the 1997 opens up over time. Readers holding the 1997 are…

Vintage Retrospective: The 1997 Napa Valley Cabernets (Sep 2017)

Full medium red, not particularly bright. Fully mature, slightly rustic aromas of plum, leather and cedary cigar box, with hints of game and veggies. Began savory and quite dry, even a little tart and spiky as if in decline, then gained in roundness in the glass, showing a somewhat darker fruit character. The brett suggestions…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Batailley put in a querulous showing at the blind Southwold tasting, so I asked for another bottle at the property. It has a well-defined bouquet, although I am still seeking more cohesion and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fine acidity and plenty of cedar-infused black fruit. There remains some…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Batailley put in a querulous showing at the blind Southwold tasting, so I asked for another bottle at the property. It has a well-defined bouquet, although I am still seeking more cohesion and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fine acidity and plenty of cedar-infused black fruit. There remains some…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo is gracious, perfumed and very nicely lifted. An effusive, floral bouquet opens first, followed by a rush of red berry fruit. Nervous, a bit wiry at this stage, the 2017 is going to need at least a few years to fully open, but all the elements are in place to allow that…