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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Superb dark ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black raspberry, cassis and smoke. Lush, layered and sweet; already shows compelling inner-mouth flavor, surprising in light of the 3.6 pH, which is lower than normal for this wine. Still, the acids are harmonious and ripe. Longer and sweeter on the back end than the ’97. Tannins are…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aromatic nose combines crystallized blackberry, cassis, shoe polish and mint. Tight, firm and rather ungiving in the mouth, with moderately ripe, muscular flavors of cassis, licorice and shoe polish. Doesn’t quite deliver the flavor interest promised by the nose.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full, saturated red-ruby. Knockout nose combines redcurrant, tropical chocolate, leather, woodsmoke and nutty oak with exotic chocolate mint and coffee liqueur; still manages to retain floral lift even in this beastly vintage. Then wonderfully fat, sweet and full, even if it comes across as almost heavy following the ineffable 2005 and 2004 examples. But relatively…

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2016 Dominus is a dark, somber wine. I don’t quite see the explosive energy of the 2013 or 2010, not the seductiveness of the 2012, but the 2016 has a distinct charm that is all its own. Quite frankly, I can’t remember a young Dominus with this combination of fruit density, freshness and polished…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Cherry-berry and menthol nose has a briary quality and seems somewhat pinched. Reasonably well delineated on the palate, but ungenerous and not showing the fat or ripeness of the vintage. Lacks distinction. Seems somewhat sour and green on the finish.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafite-Rothschild is a gorgeous wine, but it is also very young. Readers lucky enough to own it will find a very classic, gracious Lafite-Rothschild that still needs a few years to be at its best. Bright red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, mint and licorice open first, followed by darker aromas and flavors that develop…