Archives: Product Reviews

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Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2014 Screaming Eagle looks like it is going to need a good few years at a minimum to really show its true colors. Although Screaming Eagle can be quite seductive in its youth, there is little of that in 2014. Virile and imposing, the 2014 possesses tremendous depth and equally formidable tannins. Graphite, gravel,…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(roughly 85% tempranillo and 15% cabernet sauvignon; aged for a total of seven years in large oak vats, new small barrels, used small barrels and large oak vats to rest before bottling, in that order): Inky ruby: doesn’t look like a ten-year old wine. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries,…

Cellar Favorite: 2000 Calon-Ségur (Sep 2025)

Today, the powerful and brooding 2000 Calon-Ségur exudes Saint-Estèphe character in a style that marries classicism with exotic beauty. Dark-fleshed fruit, gravel, incense, tobacco, dried leaves and earthy notes open first in the beguiling bouquet. The 2000 is deep and layered in the glass, qualities that become even more prominent over time. Insistent tannins have…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Henschke’s Hill of Grace – The Garden of Eden (Apr 2023)

The 2018 Shiraz Hill of Grace is stunning from the get-go, boasting ethereal aromas that immediately draw you in, including mixed spices, damson plum, new leather, five-spice and old earth notes with a gravelly edge. Oak sits comfortably in the background with remarkable all-around composure. The immaculate palate showcases robust flavors and muscular tannins packed…