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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Barton has a seductive and beautifully composed bouquet with ample brambly red fruit, sous-bois and light pencil shavings scents. This has real finesse. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, a keen line of acidity and more salinity than its peers. What feels like top-quality new oak smooths the finish but…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Dark ruby. Bright blackcurrant and cherry aromas are complicated by violet and cedar: strikes me as deeper and richer nose than usual for Kirwan. Then somewhat more brooding in the mouth, with an austere quality but sneaky concentration to the herbal and inky dark fruit flavors. I like this wine’s very fresh delivery of fruit,…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Trotanoy has a delineated and nicely focused bouquet, maybe not the most energetic you will find, though I appreciate the pencil box and sage aromatics filtering through the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, well judged acidity, fleshy and very well balanced with impressive precision on the finish. This is…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Saturated medium ruby. Very deep aromas of cassis and bitter chocolate are complicated by sweet spices and peppery underbrush. Big and broad in the mouth but showing a slightly cool personality, offering mineral and floral flavors that are energetic and pure. A bit youthfully austere today, with firm acidity and gripping tannins not yet completely…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Branaire-Ducru has a typically lighter bouquet compared to Beychevelle but there is wonderful precision and focus, attractive scents of blackberry, wild hedgerow, mint and loam. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, very harmonious and focused with Branaire’s typical understated and yet persistent finish. Superb. Tasted from an…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Branaire-Ducru has a lovely mélange of red and black fruit, hints of dried blood and autumn leaves suggesting that this is moving into its secondary phase. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, good body and a fresh marine-tinged finish that is an absolute joy. There is an…