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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Cool, youthful aromas of wet stone, cinnamon bread, lime, tangerine and menthol. Deep, chewy and rich, with bright acids throwing the spicy cinnamon toast and mineral flavors into sharp relief. Impressively oily, ripe and full, but still painfully young, with truly three-dimensional texture and superb thrust. This should evolve in bottle for years.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Toffee, earth and white chocolate on the nose, plus a strong suggestion of terroir. Concentrated and very rich, with a deep note of beurre blanc and a strong lemony flavor. The acidity carries the flavors through to a long, slightly sweet/sour finish. Like the ’83, this wine is impressively endowed but comes across as somewhat…

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged January, 2013): Light, bright gold. Powerful orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by smoky lees, iodine, chamomile and buttered toast. At once fleshy and energetic, offering deeply pitched poached pear, peach pit and brioche flavors and a suave floral element. Finishes smoky and very long, with mounting spiciness and lingering floral and vanilla…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Duhart-Milon has an unusually opulent bouquet for a Pauillac, offering blackberry, raspberry coulis, sage and light cedar aromas. The medium-bodied palate offers fine tannins and well-judged acidity, though overall it comes across a little conservative and does not quite deliver the flair and finesse of the appellation’s top crus. Tasted blind at the…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Duhart-Milon is absolutely gorgeous. I am pleasantly surprised to see how much textural and weight the 2016 has gained over the course of its aging. Dark, ample and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2016 is positively striking. Black cherry, chocolate, cacao, licorice and new leather fill out the wine’s ample frame effortlessly….