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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Climens is a good Barsac but not my favorite Climens. At 20 years old it has a rather punchy, attacking bouquet that is missing the composure of the best vintages. The palate is marked by a sharp thread of acidity that unbalances the wine overall, and it seems to run out of ideas…

1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)

($48.50) Pale color. Cool, perfumed aromas of lemon ice, licorice, and spicy, vanillin oak. Tightly wound, even lean, yet one senses the density of material beneath the wine new oak component. Very firmly built and stylish but a bit youthfully edgy today. Finishes with late notes of vanilla and honey.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good red. Subdued nose hints at cherry, caramel and smoke. Juicy in the mouth but a bit hard-edged, with a reticent cherry flavor. The wine’s acids and tannins give the finish a slight dry edge, but there’s also good lingering flavor here.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Full ruby-red. Cool aromas of dark fruits, musky espresso and game. Juicy on entry, then silky-sweet and nicely concentrated in the middle, with pure black fruit flavors framed and lifted by bright acids. I like the combination of creamy sweetness and brisk acidity. Perhaps not as concentrated as the 2006 but has more early sex…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Dark red. Explosive aromas of currant and plum jam, game and leather. Downright velvety in the mouth, with compelling sweetness of fruit and pliancy of texture. The ripe plummy flavor is joined by chocolate and leather on the fairly tannic finish. Approachable already, this should gain in complexity with another few years of bottle aging.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Les Fort de Latour has a wonderful bouquet that roots your feet to the spot: black fruit, graphite, smoke and cedar with brilliant delineation and poise, despite the intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, with dense and quite robust tannin, huge weight and density. Honest to God, I actually thought this might be the…