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Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

The 2002 Clos du Mesnil is wonderfully pliant and expressive in the glass. The radiant personality of the year comes through in the wine’s ripe, tropically-leaning flavors and open-knit personality. I imagine the 2002 will develop at a relatively fast pace by Clos du Mesnil standards. Even so, there is more than enough freshness underpinning…

Germany 2010 (Jan 2012)

Golden yellow. Rich, smoky aromas of dried apricot, baked apple and white raisins. Sumptuous papaya fruit texture with the weight of honey-glazed botrytis is elevated by an ethereal minerality. Complex brown spices on the impressively long finish. One of the three finest ausleses of the vintage.

Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)

(from cask) Prum calls this wine typically somewhat reserved vis-a-vis the Graacher Auslese but I apprehend a level of sheer flavor intensity that goes beyond the other wines here today, with apple, honey and spice supported by a volatile esterous note of botrytis and even a prickly Eiswein-like whiff of chili pepper. Impressive custardy richness…

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

Gingery aromas of peach, stone and white flowers, with hints of smoked bacon and apple blossom. Dense and tactile but quite fine, with the strong stony character carrying through in the mouth. Here there’s superb fruit to stand up to the wine’s wood element. Finishes very long and subtle.

Looking Back at the 2005 & 2004 Brunellos (Oct 2016)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli has also developed impeccably. Dark, ample and broad, the 2004 is built on a core of serious power. Layers of dark stone fruits, leather, spice and tobacco build into the rich, intense finish.