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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(84% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 1% petit verdot) Good bright ruby. Cassis, minerals, licorice and mint lifted by spices on the nose. Moderately dense and fruit-driven, with lovely mouthcoating breadth to the dark berry, spice and fresh herb flavors; remains just this side of peppery. Best today on the subtle but very persistent finish,…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1978 Petrus is slightly better than the previous one tasted. It shows moderate bricking on the rim, but healthy and quite deep at its core. It has a conservative, floral nose as usual with plenty of sous-bois. There is a bit of mulch in here, but also a sense of simple joy. The palate…

Cellar Favorite: 1986 Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Feb 2022)

You cannot get more “trad claret” that the 1986 Grand-Puy-Lacoste. From a Pauillac that takes time to reach its drinking plateau and a notorious vintage hellbent on testing the most patient Bordeaux-lover, after 35-years, it is finally waking up the idea that its raison d’être is to give us pleasure. This bottle was poured by…

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1967 Pichon-Lalande has a simple, light bouquet, rather smudged, a little fungal in style and showing signs of chaptalization. Not a million miles away from the 1967 Latour but with patently less nobility. The palate is soft on the entry, slightly low in acidity, quite rounded and fleshy, easy-drinking and almost Grenache like towards…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full medium ruby. Flamboyantly perfumed aromas of cassis, graphite and tobacco, lifted by a floral nuance and stony minerality. Very young and precise but not austere or forbidding. A remarkably rich, silky, seamless Lafite with superb vibrancy for the vintage. Tannins are noble and the aristocratic finishing flavors go on and on. I tasted this…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Lafite-Rothschild is deep in color. It has a beautifully defined bouquet of blackberry, cedar and mint, still quite closed but very focused. There is a lot of power here, but maybe not the same level of elegance as other vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, firm grip, very nicely judged acidity…