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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(70% cabernet sauvignon, 23.5% merlot, 2.5% cabernet franc, and 4% petit verdot; 3.53 pH; 13.8% alcohol): Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of balsamic red cherry, blackcurrant, cinnamon, vanilla and minerals, lifted by captivating nuances of red rose and violet. Then incredibly pure, fresh and suave in the mouth, with lush, very refined flavors of fresh red…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright red-ruby. Aromas and flavors of cassis, mulberry, minerals, licorice and bitter chocolate. Lush, sweet, deep and densely packed if rather youthfully backward, with terrific material to support its strong vanilla and mocha oak element and its serious but sweet tannins. Ultimately quite seamless but in need of several years of aging to harmonize and…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru is a little more rustic on the nose compared to the nascent 2019. Blackberry, wild hedgerow, potpourri and light mineral aromas vie for attention. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgy/chalky tannins on the entry. Good acidity, maybe a little rustic and quite peppery, despite this…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

From the three youngest parcels in the clos, the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru has a fragrant blackberry and briar bouquet with light pressed iris aromas. The balanced, medium-bodied offers suggestions of licorice on the entry and touches of graphite toward the finish. Fine.

Life Is Funny Like That: 1999 & 2015 DRC (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was cropped at 30.42hl/ha on 11 and 12 September. It has a glorious bouquet that springs from the glass: Morello cherries, crushed strawberry, crushed stone, just a hint of bay leaf all beautifully defined and with a little more horsepower than the Echézeaux. The palate is medium-bodied with a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Healthy dark red. More subdued on the nose than the Echézeaux, with its very pure aromas of dark berries, cherry, spices and violet conveying outstanding subtle lift. Larger-scaled but tighter and more imploded than the Echézeaux, showing more early mineral pungency as well as a tighter kernel of sharply delineated fruits and spices. But this…