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Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Cos d'Estournel has a more understated bouquet than its peers, demanding more coaxing from the glass to reveal its gravel-tinged black fruit—quintessential Saint-Estèphe, really. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, white-pepper-infused black fruit, gentle grip and quite a persistent finish. It's a bit uncompromising at the moment, but it should evolve into…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Palmer is even more impressive from bottle than it was from barrel, and that is saying something. Rich, exotic and beautifully layered, Palmer is a real head-turner in 2018. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, licorice, espresso and sweet floral notes build over time, but it is the wine's stunning depth and textural voluptuousness that…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Palmer is a legend in the making. I had an inkling out of barrel, but such was its intensity that I wanted to assess it in bottle before I felt confident in saying so, because this could have gone either way. It storms from the glass with black fruit and floral scents, crushed…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Corvées des Vignes, which was picked August 27, has a crisp nose of crushed stone, jasmine and pressed white flowers. The palate is well balanced, taut and fresh, with a fine line of acidity, and lightly spiced toward the finish, which shows good persistence. The tongue tingles on the aftertaste – almost…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed and raised in 60% new oak. Like the Clos Prieur, it has a vivacious, well defined bouquet with slightly more red fruit by comparison. In addition, the floral element is more pronounced, especially after three or four minutes of aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Phélan Ségur has an attractive bouquet with red berry fruit laced with cedar and wilted rose petal aromas, quite pure in style and gaining delineation as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little lactic on the entry but it dovetails into a sweet second half with…