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The Glorious 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2018)

Good full red. Old-school, rather claret-like aromas of redcurrant, tarte au mirabelle, coffee, mocha, mint and menthol. At once firm and silky; not hard but not hugely ripe or concentrated either. (Faiveley was doing longer cuvaison and more energetic extraction in 1999.) Not sweet or particularly fruity or expansive but still full of life, with…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2015 Brut Rosé is stern, austere and not especially forthcoming. The Roederer Rosé is usually a charmer, but the 2015 comes across as reticent, with slightly angular contours that are out of character.

1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)

Apricot, grilled nuts, oak spices and vanilla on the nose. Correct but lacking in personality and richness. Could use more intensity and texture.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Clos de l’Oratoire was picked at 29hl/ha and matured in 70% new oak for 18 months. It has an attractive mulberry, bay leaf, incense and orange peel bouquet that is fresh and vital after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite sturdy tannin. This is fresh but shows a surprisingly firm…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby-red. Extroverted, distinctly sauvage nose of roasted meat and leather. Fat and soft in the mouth, with plenty of inner-mouth flavor interest. Seems longer today than the same owner’s Aiguilhe, and the tannins are finer and sweeter.

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a…