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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Batailley has a straightforward bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, a touch of brine and with aeration a touch of signature Pauillac mintiness. It would certainly benefit from more freshness and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a sour note on the entry. This simply feels rather green and there is clearly some under-ripeness towards…

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Suduiraut has a strange bouquet with melted wax, quince and wet wool aromas, rather smudged and becoming Aszú-like with time in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry and starts well. It is missing some precision, a little spicy in style however, the warmth of the growing season erodes…

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Bright, full yellow. Honey, pineapple and a whiff of menthol on the nose. Then impressively powerful in the mouth but with lovely acidity leavening its concentrated fruit. Very juicy and fine for Suduiraut, and not at all outsized or overly sweet. Comes across as very young, and finishes with noteworthy spine. Quite suave.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Deep red-ruby. Pungently mineral aromas of blackberry, violet and sexy nutty oak. Rich, dense and chocolatey, but with harmonious acids giving an enticing juicy quality to this flavorful wine. Notes of underbrush and tobacco leaf contribute complexity. Finishes with rather suave tannins that became a bit firmer with aeration, suggesting that this should be held…

1997 and 1996 White Burgundies (Sep 1998)

Green-tinged color of the vintage. Deeper-pitched aromas of nut oil and honey; less fruity than the village wines. Fatter and sweeter in the mouth, with good flesh to buffer the acidity of the vintage. Quite full for this wine. Very long, adamantly dry finish dominated by pineapple.

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Tignanello is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. The 2008 isn’t a huge or obvious Tignanello, rather it is a wine that impresses for its sublime elegance and precision. Understated layers of fruit caress the palate like cashmere in this impeccable, soft wine. There is not a hard edge to be…