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2014 Chianti Classico: Better Late Than Never (Oct 2016)

The 2014 Batàr, Querciabella’s Chardonnay/Pinot Bianco blend, comes across as a bit light in this vintage. The flavors are bright, lifted and nicely articulated throughout, with plenty of citrus and white flower notes. I find the mid-palate somewhat lacking in depth today, which also results in the oak standing out, even though the 2014 only…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

One of the highlights of the vintage, the 2015 Malescot Saint Exupéry is superb. Grilled herbs, smoke, black cherry, lavender, menthol and graphite literally explode from this glass. Huge swaths of tannin give the wine its shape and big, ample frame. Iron, smoke, graphite, grilled herbs and licorice punctuate the huge, powerful finish. Readers should…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Malescot St. Exupery has a ripe, perfumed bouquet of ample red fruit laced with allspice, cedar and warm gravel. The medium-bodied palate displays slightly chewy tannin and feels quite primal, requiring more bottle age to knit together. There is density and even brawn here, but counterbalancing grace and elegance are needed to complete…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Superb floral lift to the aromas of stone and citrus fruits, minerals and smoke. Compellingly silky, even thick, on entry, but with terrific inner-mouth mineral lift shaping and intensifying the wine’s lemon and floral flavors. Dense with dry extract, this outstanding 2016 premier cru leaves the salivary glands quivering on the very long, slow-building finish….

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

(grenache with 30% mourvedre and 20% syrah) Deep, bright red. Very ripe aromas of cassis, espresso, smoked meat and animal fur. Lush, fleshy and concentrated; supersweet grenache-dominated flavors of cherry and plum. Creamy but lively and elegant. Finishes long and firm, but turned a tad dry with aeration, showing menthol and herbal elements.

The Best New Wines From Spain (Jul 2003)

Full medium ruby. Roasted black fruits and graphite on the nose. Sweet, dense and full; the superripe black fruits show a roasted aspect, but firm acids are keeping the wine tightly wound. Needs another year or so to show more complexity. Peter Sisseck’s second wine is from purchased grapes but may also contain some declassified…