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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

One of the clear wines of the vintage, the 2012 Troplong-Mondot has been remarkable on several occasions. Sweet crushed flowers, red cherries, smoke, tobacco and plums open up in a heady, sensual Saint-Emilion that hits all the right notes. The 2012 blossoms nicely with time in the glass, gaining volume, but never losing its precision….

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 14.3% alcohol; 31 hectoliters per hectare; roughly 75% of the total production went into the grand vin): Inky purple. Ripe aromas of cassis, stewed plum, dark cocoa, coffee and fresh herbs on the showy nose. On the palate, more ripe dark fruit and chocolate flavors are complicated by vanilla…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Troplong Mondot has a fragrant bouquet with black cherry, cough candy and touches of marmalade, not complex but vigorous and fresh. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bone-structure and good acidity. Some expressive Cabernet Franc lends a Left Bank tincture on the spicy, black pepper-tinged finish. Classy, but not sure about its…

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2012)

Bright red with an amber rim. A heady, wildly complex bouquet evokes red fruit preserves, potpourri, vanilla, cigar box and pipe tobacco, with slow-building vanilla and woodsmoke qualities. Sappy and seamless on the palate, showing sweet red berry, cherry and rose pastille flavors and a touch of mocha. Clings with outstanding tenacity on the finish,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 75% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot; pH 3.69; 60% new oak) Very deep purple. Fresh cabernet sauvignon-dominated nose shows floral, cassis and graphite aromas. Also vibrant on entry, with ripe, soft black fruit and mineral flavors that resonate through the smooth finish. This very well-made wine shows much more complexity, depth and…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

From purchased grapes, the 2020 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru is primal on the nose, offering grapefruit and light leesy scents and perhaps missing a bit of pedigree compared to the Montée de Tonnerre. The palate is saline on the entry, very citric and slightly bitter toward the finish, where I am seeking a little more…