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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Pavie has a rustic nose with melted tar piercing the black earthy fruit, mulberry and pencil shavings emerging with time. The palate is well-balanced yet simpler than say, the 1978 Pavie opened a few weeks earlier. Clean yet a little static in style, it cannot compete with the 1982 Magdelaine poured in tandem…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1986 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of the standout wines of the decade, and served blind, this suggests that it might have the 1982 in its sights. In many ways, it is the twin brother of the Cabernet-driven 1996. It bolts out of the stable doors with intense blackberry and cedar aromas – pure…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

(65% grenache, 20% mourvedre, 10% syrah and the rest the others) Deep red. Explosively perfumed nose offers a profound bouquet of red and dark berries, licorice, incense and musky underbrush. Broad, palate-staining raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are enveloped in velvety tannins, with suave anise and Asian spices adding complexity. A huge but balanced-even graceful-wine, with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Red-ruby. Slightly rustic aromas of plum, game and flowers. Cooler and a bit medicinal in the mouth, with modest flesh and sweetness. There’s no lack of intensity here, but this cru bourgeois could use a bit more personality.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Potensac has a clean, fresh bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and cedar scents, just a touch of mint emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite firm and structured but pleasingly fresh after 20 years. Perusing an old note from 2007, I see that I was scathing in my review, but…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(made with 20 percent whole clusters and aged in concrete tanks and demi-muids) Dark ruby. Ripe, smoke-tinged cherry and blueberry compote aromas show excellent clarity, and a peppery element adds spicy lift. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering densely packed yet shockingly lively red and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors and a hint…