Archives: Product Reviews

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2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Gorgeous aromatic lift, precision and tension are the hallmarks of the 2012 Volnay Fremiets. Here the fruit takes on more burnished shades of color, with hints of dark red and black berries, crushed flowers and sweet spices. The Fremiets is a wine of total nuance and precision, and shows the more finessed side of the…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

Rousseau’s 2011 Ruchottes-Chambertin dazzles from start to finish. Plums, black cherries, cloves and violets are among the many notes that are alive in the glass. This is a surprisingly rich, explosive Ruchottes endowed with superb depth and more than enough intensity to drink beautifully for many, many years. What a gorgeous wine this is.

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(25% new oak; I tasted a representative blend from new and old barrels): Bright, deep color. Wild, musky, ripe dark berries, black cherry and botanical herbs on the captivating nose. Dense and sappy, offering an exhilarating high-wire act of sweetness and acidity. Complex flavors of black raspberry, licorice and game birds. Seriously concentrated, expressive grand…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(Lafon made 50 barrels, which he described as a full crop): Pretty aromas of apricot, peach and flowers are complicated by a seductive leesy quality. Wonderfully silky on the palate, offering a superb balance of fruit and acidity. Relatively sweet in the context of these ’17s, but Lafon insisted that the wine has barely one…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(50 hectoliters per hectare produced): Bright, pale yellow-green. Complex nose melds tangerine, yellow peach and a touch of honey, lifted by minty high tones. At once sappy and plush, with its silky volume offset by sound acidity. This rich, very dry wine boasts good inner-mouth tension to its yellow fruit flavors but is a tad…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend; Lafon has 50 barrels of this wine, representing a yield of 55 hectoliters per hectare): Bright, light yellow. Classic Meursault aromas and flavors of peach and nectarine. Boasts lovely fat and sweetness as well as a faint floral complexity. Finishes with palate-saturating fruit and excellent length for village wine….