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Vinous Table: Mudan Tempura – Taipei, Taiwan (Feb 2025)

The 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Blanc from de Vogüé, which I would have last tasted in barrel with former winemaker François Millet, is quite powerful on the nose, in my mind, curiously Côte de Beaune-like in style. Given the growing season in question, I would have liked more tension and -mineralité_. The palate has a…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

Bright red cherry, raspberry and expressive floral notes from the Cabernet Franc are some of the signatures in the 2014 Latour à Pomerol. A wine of precision, tension and energy, the 2014 exudes class. Hints of white pepper and cranberry add further brightness as the wine gradually opens up. The 2014 has become more polished…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good full red. Great depth and complexity to the aromas of raspberry, strawberry, baked bread, tobacco and black olive. Plush, sweet and remarkably mouthfilling, conveying a compelling creaminess of texture but also a magically light touch and outstanding finesse. The thick flavors of red fruits, cocoa powder, meat and forest floor are perfectly supported by…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Good, full ruby. Complex but reticent aromas of strawberry, red cherry liqueur, violet, leather and black pepper. Dense, spherical and opulent, with a spectacularly silky texture to the middle palate and brooding flavors similar to the aromas. This massive Pomerol finishes with sophisticated sweet tannins and outstanding palate-saturating length. A great Trotanoy: my score may…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

Introverted and compact, the 2013 Échézeaux nevertheless possesses remarkable depth. In this vintage, the Échézeaux feels quite ripe and intense, but there is plenty of underlying structure as well. Today, there is an almost exotic quality to the fruit.

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep medium red. Liqueur-like ripeness to the aromas of raspberry and earth. Fatter and sweeter than the Corton, with the wine’s very ripe red fruit notes complicated by mocha and an element of vegetal underbrush. Finishes with slightly drying tannins and a faint green edge. An awkward showing today.