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2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Good pale yellow. Penetrating aromas of citrus peel, spices, metallic minerality and crushed rock. Tightly wound, gripping and deep, with outstanding concentration and clarity and a density of texture that reminded me of the 2005 here. A flavor of candied lime peel is already quite exhilarating but this wine’s youthfully imploded character calls for at…

Burgundy 2024: One Battle After Another

The 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a well-defined bouquet with apple blossom and kiwi fruit scents intertwined with an underlying cold limestone scent. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity, fine texture and commendable mineralité, especially in the second half where it seems to kick up a gear. One to watch.

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1999 Latour has a dark garnet color with little aging on the rim. The nose is closed initially and demands coaxing, eventually revealing blackberry, cedar and light pencil-shaving aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, displaying some secondary notes of clove, white pepper and a distinct earthiness that comes through on the finish….

Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 5% cabernet franc; 13.4% alcohol): Deep red. Open-knit aromas of red cherry and cassis complicated by intense notes of clove, nutmeg, incense and bay leaf. Then creamy and soft on the palate, but with lovely lift to the flavors of dark berries, minerals…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good ruby-red. Expressive aromas of plum, redcurrant, tobacco and gravel. Supple and juicy, with good energy to the flavors of cassis, flowers and tobacco. Very savory wine with subtle sweetness of fruit. Finishes broad and sweet but quite firm, with sneaky length.

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Arione is a sort of synthesis between the Cerretta and Francia. It has the red fruit profile and floral overtones of the former with a feeling of structure that recalls the later. Arione Barolos always have a distinctly wild, feral quality strong on iron and mineral notes, which is very much the…