Archives: Product Reviews

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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Laid-back, extremely young aromas of honey, creme caramel, smoke and earth; essence of semillon. Rich, large-scaled and powerful; really expands in the mouth. Lovely harmonious acidity and bright notes of orange peel and minerals give this very youthful wine great clarity of flavor. Classy and impeccably balanced. The subtle, oak-spicy, nutty finish goes on and…

Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

To finish, back on “home turf” with the 1989 Yquem. It is a vintage I have drunk many times in recent years: quince, apricots, honey and saffron burst forth on the nose with brilliant delineation. The palate is a little tauter than in previous bottles, with marmalade and quince to the fore and an energetic,…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Deep purple-ruby. Pure nose offers blackcurrant, minerals and spicy bitter chocolate. Suave and rich, with flavors of blackcurrant and spicy plum. At once fatter and finer-grained than the 2007, with harmonious acidity buffering its voluptuous texture. The broad, mouthcoating finish features fine tannins, excellent length and a floral note.

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright red-ruby. Dark berries, redcurrant, licorice and mint on the nose. Sweet, tactile, chewy and rich, with a firm edge of acidity giving cut and definition to the flavors of crushed cherry, redcurrant, minerals and spices. The building tannins come across as smooth. An elegantly styled Pauillac with a firm spine of acids and tannins…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2008 Lynch-Bages is deep in color with minor aging on the rim. The nose is well-defined but demands coaxing, almost reluctantly revealing blackberry, briary, tobacco and mint aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannins, lovely black fruit laced with tobacco and spice, dense and grippy. This is beautifully proportioned on the…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Ruby-red. Sexy, deeply pitched aromas of black fruits, game and smoky oak. Lush, rich and full, with a deep sweetness to its black and blue fruit flavors. This boasts extraordinary fat and depth for a village wine, even if today it shows less lift than the 2006. Finishes with broad, substantial tannins. Put this in…