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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a rather backward and introverted bouquet offering boysenberry fruit and a touch of India ink. The palate is balanced with fine tannin and well-judged acidity. It just misses a degree of complexity and mineralité, making the finish pleasant but not memorable or profound.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Full, bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe, spice-tinged black raspberry, cherry preserves, garrigue, pungent flowers and a hint of gaminess on the expansive nose. Plush, appealingly sweet red and dark fruit liqueur and lavender pastille flavors turn spicier and more energetic as the wine opens up. The cherry and floral notes echo on a very long, penetrating finish…

Argentina on the Couch: Malbec, Terroir and Other Trends (Nov 2021)

The 2019 Malbec Argentino is a blend of grapes from venerable vineyards in Lunlunta and Paraje Altamira; it is essentially a premium Mendoza Malbec. A significant amount was fermented in whole bunches before spending 18 months in used French barrels. The complex nose presents notes of plum and blueberry with hints of country herb, jarilla…

Argentina on the Couch: Malbec, Terroir and Other Trends (Nov 2021)

The 2019 Nicolas Catena Zapata is a blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec and 28% Cabernet Franc from the Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Having spent 18 months in new French barrels, it’s garnet red in hue. The 2019 has a nose of cedar, expressive, dark fruit notes such as plum and…

Chianti Classico 2013 & 2012: The Luck of the Draw (Sep 2015)

The 2012 Tignanello is deep, rich and voluptuous, yet also retains a distinct element of classicism in its focused, mid-weight structure. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, kirsch, spice, tobacco and menthol open up in the glass, but only reluctantly. Firm veins of tannin and pulsating acidity give the wine its sense of energy and verticality. The…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Tertre Rôteboeuf has a high-toned, rather oaky bouquet that comes across like a Saint-Emilion from the 1990s. It is not unattractive per se and improves dramatically in the glass (indeed, not knowing that Tertre-Rôteboeuf was in this flight, I misread the wine). The palate is rich on the entry, sweet black fruit cloaked…