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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cos d’Estournel has a well-defined bouquet that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. It is not complex or vigorous, yet nicely detailed. Melted tar and cigar humidor infuse the black fruit, becoming earthier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. This feels quite masculine…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Wild aromas of redcurrant, minerals, leather, gunflint and game; developing faster than either of the more recent vintages are likely to do. A wine of modest density and fat, and currently rather austere, but possesses very good vinosity and length. Tannins are slightly dry but fine.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(56% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 4% petit verdot; 13% alcohol): Bright ruby-red with an amber rim. Captivating aromas of red cherry, minerals and flowers. Very refined flavors of red- and blackcurrant, minerals and violet. Finishes long and clean, with a zingy minerality, polished tannins and building sweetness. Unfortunately, I have also had a poor…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Branaire Ducru, a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 40% Merlot with 12.95° alcohol. It has a clear dark ruby colour. The bouquet demanded some encouragement from the glass, eventually revealing attractive brambly red berry fruit mingling with sandalwood, a touch of mint and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, cedar, smoke, leather and milk chocolate on the nose. Supple and plummy in the middle, with a pliancy from the merlot but still in the dryer vein of ’98. Finishes with dusty, slightly dry tannins. I find this a bit austere on the back half.

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

One of the highlights of the evening, the 1973 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque (Disgorged 2010) is vivid and finely sculpted. There is plenty of nuance, depth and freshness in the glass, but it is the wine’s staying power and overall persistence that stand out most, especially as the evening wears on. In this flight, the 1973…