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2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2012 Screaming Eagle is sensational. Still quite deep and intense, the 2012 is revealing itself to be a long-distance runner. Scents of blackberry, grilled herbs, graphite, lavender and mocha are enticing, yet the 2012 remains very young. Imposing tannins and bright, vibrant acids from a year that cooled down at the end of the…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Langoa Barton was picked September 21–24 for the Merlot and September 29–October 6 for the Cabernet, then matured in 60% new oak. It remains opulent and high-toned on the nose, retaining those overt blueberry and cassis scents that I remarked upon in barrel. The palate is sweet and charming, though for me it…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Langoa Barton is succulent and racy right out of the gate. Inky red fruit, sweet floral notes, cedar and spice all mesh together effortlessly. This mid-weight, pliant Saint-Julien is every bit as seductive as it was from barrel.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

My feeling about the 2018 Réserve de la Comtesse is pretty much the same as it was when I first tasted it en primeur. It is an attractive, gracious wine with plenty of immediacy and appeal, but not the depth of some previous editions. I imagine that mostly reflects the significant presence of young vine…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Réserve de Pichon Comtesse has undergone a discreet change of name since the 2017 vintage. What has not changed is that it’s a knockout Second Label. It ladles out gorgeous scents of blackberry mixed with iodine and violets, just as it did from barrel. The palate is quite rich and generous, with saturated,…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Moulin Saint-Georges has a broody, introspective bouquet, so I allowed it 90–120 minutes to open. It reveals enticing blackberry, seaweed and light graphite notes with aeration, perhaps a little more sophisticated than recent vintages of the Vauthier family’s estate. The immediate impression on the palate is the texture, which is satin-like and very…