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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Red-ruby. Berries, mint and some fresh herbal notes on the nose. Nicely sweet on entry, then moderately fleshy in the middle palate, with flavors of blackberry and bitter chocolate. Finishes with palate-dusting tannins.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The bottle of 1989 Léoville-Barton is probably the best I have encountered over the years; indeed, it is better than a bottle opened by Lilian Barton-Sartorius when I visited the property a few weeks earlier. It has a comely old-school claret bouquet of red fruit infused with cedar and loamy scents, and maybe some dustiness,…

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

The 1971 Dom Pérignon (Original Release) is a powerful, structured Champagne. Rosewater, dried flower and spice nuances give the 1971 a distinctive exotic profile. The 1971 does not have the fruit depth or mid-palate richness of most of the other wines in this tasting. As a result, the 1971 starts to feel a bit dry…

1971 x 50 (Feb 2021)

This bottle of 1971 Dom Pérignon, the second that I have tasted, was an original disgorgement and slightly paler than the Cristal 1971 served alongside. It has a devastatingly gorgeous bouquet, intoxicating from the get-go: grilled walnuts, dried honey and even a hint of marmalade, all delivered with exceptional delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts. What else is there to say? The magnum format is so well-suited to Champagne. As opposed to still wines, which are just aged in glass, for Champagne, the secondary fermentation takes place in the glass. I am convinced that is a major part of what…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light, bright gold with a steady bead. Orange, ripe pear, red berries and white flowers on the nose, with complementary notes of lemon, honey, sweet butter and smoky minerals. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by gentle minerality, picking up subtle baking spice and buttered toast notes with air. Surprisingly generous at this…