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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Cherbaudes 1er Cru feels a little reduced on the nose at first, but eventually black cherries, iodine and violet aromas begin to make their presence felt. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, strict and linear and perhaps not quite "kicking on" toward the finish, leaving you wanting more. Has it got…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red color. Complex aromas of black cherry, currant, chocolate, herbs, licorice and tobacco leaf. Fairly sweet and dense on the palate, with very good concentration and firm acidity for the year. This is aged in 100% new oak, but the wood is very much in the background. Finishes very long and subtle,…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1997 Lafite-Rothschild is certainly one of the better First Growths of this somewhat maligned vintage. Gravel, pencil shavings and light tobacco notes furnish the mature nose that is open-knit and perhaps missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, balanced and conveying some of Lafite’s elegance, yet it does taper quickly on…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2003 Brane-Cantenac comes from an infamously hot vintage when vines found it almost impossible to shut down during the heatwave, particularly on balmy nights. As such, the prune-tinged red berry fruit aromatics feel unsurprisingly smudged, lacking the delineation and freshness of recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with distinctly confit-like red fruit, veering into…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Pavie-Macquin has a harmonious, intense bouquet of layered black cherry, bilberry and light tobacco notes; the oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, and slightly higher in acidity than I would like, although it has an irresistible silky finish. The question is, where will it go? I have…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

The 2016 Pavie-Macquin is an epic wine in the making. Powerful, dense and explosive in the glass, the 2016 is simply dazzling. A rush of dark cherry, plum, lavender, spice and licorice builds in a sumptuous, beautifully layered Saint-Émilion that screams with character. More than anything else, the 2016 impresses for the way it balances…