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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Highly nuanced nose combines Indian spices, lees, truffle and strong soil tones; showed a distinct raspberry note with aeration. Explosive and powerful in the mouth; concentrated, focused and youthful. But tightly wound, and currently dominated by its structure. Doesn’t offer the urgent dark fruit flavors or generosity of the supernal ’85 and seems a bit…

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Medium-deep red. Pungent aromas of red berries, cherry, leather, meat, tobacco, cedar and eucalyptus. Juicy, dry and on the lean side, with slightly weedy red berry, tobacco and violet flavors. One feels the malbec on the slightly dry-edged finish.

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2014 Meursault Clos de la Barre has a subtle struck match reduction on the nose that seems to imbue it with more nerve than the 2015 tasted alongside. There is more drive and intensity here. The palate is very well balanced with impressive weight, quite spicy yet with a tender finish. It musters more…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(tasted from tank): Musky lime blossom on the nose. Tactile and extract-rich, displaying very good cut and energy to its flavors of lime and flowers. In a distinctly juicier style than the Désirée, thanks to good acid thrust. Refreshingly bracing on the aftertaste.

Vertical Tasting of Quinta do Noval’s Nacional Vintage Port (Nov 2012)

Palish red-brown. Currant, fresh herbs, coffee and mellow wood tones on the slightly shallow, evolved nose. Offers an attractive mid-palate sweetness but comes across as quite light, finishing with slightly drying tannins and a sugary, caramel-like quality. Faded with air. This has been on a plateau for the last 20 years, noted Seely. I’d drink…

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru, incidentally the first to be closed under Diam, has a fragrant nose with green apple, dried peach, pear, crushed rock and a subtle yet attractive resinous, almost linseed note. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, approaching full maturity but clearly…