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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Pink with an orange rim and a vigorous mousse. Deep cherry, berry skin, spiced nuts and flowers on the nose, brightened by blood orange and smoky minerals. Taut, finely etched red berry and citrus flavors gain flesh with air, taking a turn to bitter cherry, toffee apple and yellow plum. Sappy, lightly chewy and concentrated,…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Yquem at 20 years old: a legend? It certainly received much adulation on release. As a reminder, it was picked over five tries from September 18 to October 23 and has 150g/L of residual sugar. Limpid gold in color, as you would expect, it looks quite youthful for a Sauternes of this…

1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)

Straw-gold. Marzipan, honey and toasted hazelnut on the nose. Moderately viscous and currently rather oaky. Has an impressively chewy texture but is not yet displaying its personality. Finishes with some youthful harshness. The ’97 is at once stronger and finer.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Ripe aromas of plum, currant, lead pencil and milk chocolate. Sweet but penetrating and gripping, with lovely clarity of flavor and terrific thrust. Classic claret, with lovely fruit and a very long, ripely tannic finish. A compelling example from this very elegantly styled vintage. Drink now through 2015.

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Suduiraut has a strange bouquet with melted wax, quince and wet wool aromas, rather smudged and becoming Aszú-like with time in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry and starts well. It is missing some precision, a little spicy in style however, the warmth of the growing season erodes…