Archives: Product Reviews

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2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Bright, full yellow. Honey, pineapple and a whiff of menthol on the nose. Then impressively powerful in the mouth but with lovely acidity leavening its concentrated fruit. Very juicy and fine for Suduiraut, and not at all outsized or overly sweet. Comes across as very young, and finishes with noteworthy spine. Quite suave.

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

Things get much more interesting as the 1985 Solaia is poured. What a wine. Bold, luscious and full-bodied, the 1985 is magnificent. More importantly, the 1985 is in a perfect spot to deliver maximum drinking pleasure. Readers lucky enough to taste well-stored bottles will find a hedonistic, dramatic Solaia.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby. Rather dumb nose exudes a faint shoe polish aroma. Dense, velvety, soft and mouthcoating; fills those hard-to-reach spots on your palate. Really an outsized wine, with thick, chocolatey fruit and major dusty tannins. But currently monolithic. In France they’d call this Monsieur Plus.”

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1997 Yquem comes from a season that witnessed the earliest-ever flowering (5 May) and an early picking that began on 4 September, though botrytis failed to develop, necessitating seven tries through the vineyard over 32 days of picking that lasted until 4 November. One aspect to note is how deep in colour this is…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Antinori’s 2010 Tignanello is stunning, as it has been since I started tasting the component wines in 2011. Firm yet sweet, silky tannins form the backbone for this gorgeous, vivid wine. Dark red cherries, plums, cloves, mint and sage inform a Tignanello that impresses for its delineation, nuance and power. Clean, saline notes support the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright, deep red. Perfumed aromas of red fruits, licorice, minerals and fresh herbs; some hints of roasted fruits in the background. Sweet, dense and concentrated, with chewy, penetrating flavors of cherry, raspberry, game and minerals. Densely packed and rather suave. Finishes ripely tannic, long and perfumed. (An earlier sample was less expressive and less suave…