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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has an intriguing nose with kirsch and brown spices, perhaps more Rhône-like than Burgundy, yet with aeration it gradually reverts to what Pinot should be. Suffice to say, this seems mercurial although it settles after 10 to 15 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Fleshy,…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1962 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have encountered twice before. As on one of those prior occasions, this time I also felt there was just a very faint touch of TCA. That aside, it does retain its tobacco/cigar humidor nose, and this example reveals a touch of garrigue. It’s quite savory…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Meursault Porusots 1er Cru is a wine that I remember as perplexing in barrel, and that is borne out in bottle. The powerful, rather heavy-handed bouquet has perhaps too much new oak vis-à-vis the fruit, and there are strong tropical scents here that are almost overwhelming. The palate is reduced on the entry…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(on its finings, with a higher level of CO2 due to the fact that its malolactic fermentation finished very late, in tank): A note of musky reduction to the cooler aromas of nectarine, crushed stone and hazelnut. Then surprisingly silky and suave but tight and high-pitched in the mouth, with its stone fruit flavors conveying…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

1994 Mouton Rothschild: Sexy smoky, gingery oak, along with a hint of herbaceousness. Fruity and vinous, with good inner-mouth perfume, but the level of extract seems rather low for this wine. Finishes with slightly harsh tannins and some caramel oak. Lacks real precision and class. Not a strong performance for Mouton.

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Lively, complex, fresh aromas of tropical fruit, honey and spicy oak. Sweet and viscous in the middle palate; kept fresh by apple and pear notes and harmonious acidity. Very concentrated and deep. Very long on the aftertaste; has the sheer material to buffer its alcohol. Rieussec switched to later bottling with this vintage: 30 rather…