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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Grands Vignes Blanc 1er Cru, matured in around 28% new oak, has an attractive bouquet with scents of brioche, honey and yellow flowers plus a hint of custard creams in the background. The palate is well balanced with a creamy opening, a little low in acidity compared to recent…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1996 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that has not matured as well as I hoped. It offers a slightly smudged bouquet with undergrowth infused black fruit laced with tar, this particular bottle a little more citric than others that I have encountered over the years. The palate is better, as I have found before, with…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full red-ruby. Explosive aromas of boysenberry juice, espresso and smoky oak. Thick and lush, with terrific volume in the mouth; harmonious acidity gives the flavors clarity and brightness. Very long, sweet finish.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin is soft, silky and delicate on the palate. Sweet red berries, mint and floral notes meld together nicely in the glass. Today the 2012 is solid, if not quite the overachiever it can be.

Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 12.9% alcohol): Medium-deep ruby-red. Woodsy aromas of forest floor and truffle combine with fresher red berry and cassis on the nose. Then sweeter and richer in the mouth than the autumnal nose suggests, showing a lightly syrupy quality to the red and dark berry flavors. Finishes…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium red-ruby. Plum syrup, cassis, tobacco, mocha and a faint whiff of cardboard on the nose. Initially fat and supple in the middle, with notes of tar and tobacco, but grew a bit drier in the glass. Finishes with slightly green, dry-edged tannins. This was difficult to assess a year ago and is still hard…