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Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2012)

Opaque ruby. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes cherry compote, cassis, violet, pipe tobacco and smoky, vanillin oak. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors show liqueur-like power, with floral pastille, licorice and spicecake nuances building in the glass. Tannins come up with air but are quickly absorbed by this wine’s lush fruit. Smoky and sweet on…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Good saturated red-ruby color. Highly nuanced aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, rose petal, minerals, orange peel and game. Bright and firm on entry, then concentrated and thick with extract. Flavors are sharply delineated. Firmly structured yet generous of texture and flavor. Very long, slow opening aftertaste.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Walnut, hazelnut, butterscotch and a Tokaji-like suggestion of damp stone on the yeasty nose. Brisk in texture, quite dry and distinctly mature, with a nut skin note and slightly sour-edged acidity. But concentrated and firmly structured. A classic dinner table bubbly. Bollinger fans appreciate the mature flavors of this Champagne, but my sample seemed a…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Good full red. Lovely floral lift to the aromas and flavors of dark cherry, brown spices and sexy oak. Broad and plush on entry, then quite tight, even youthfully clenched, in the middle, showing a somewhat medicinal cast but excellent lift to its black cherry flavor. Most impressive today on the firmly tannic, very long…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

A similar thread runs through the 2012 Volnay Clos de la Barre. Firm tannins enrobe a core of seriously deep, rich fruit. Here, too, readers will have to be patient, as the 2012 is structured, virile and imposing, and is likely to remain so for some time.

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Deep ruby. Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy…