Archives: Product Reviews

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Annual Coverage of California’s North Coast (May 2013)

(contains 15% merlot; 95% from mountain fruit; 98% new oak): Good bright ruby-red. Refined, restrained, slightly medicinal aromas of cassis, licorice, herbs, lead pencil and coffee. Sweet, plush and energetic but youthfully reserved, with the medicinal quality carrying through on the palate. Most impressive today on the broad, slowly building finish, which features firm but…

2023 Wachau and Lower Austria: Mercurial Weather Gods Smiled in the End (Jul 2024)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Supperin, from three parcels within a flat site on weathered, eroded gneiss, fermented in a new 900-liter Stockinger barrel and then moved with lees to a used barrel. The palate is more slender than the nose suggests, but emollience and saltiness are absolutely here, guided by lemon and a lovely frame…

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Dark red. Spicy cherry and blackberry on the nose, with a subtle dried herb accent. Sweet red berry flavors are brightened by a mineral note and gently supported by soft tannins. Finishes bright and fresh, with dusty tannins and good precision.

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Meursault Meix Sous Le Chateau wraps around the palate with gorgeous textural richness and pure depth. Soft floral notes meld into butter and pastry, followed by yellow stone fruits, in a wine that is all about sensuality. The gentle, caressing contours make the 2011 an excellent choice for drinking over the next few…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Villages has an attractive nose with more precision than the Meursault Village. The palate is well balanced with crisp nectarine and citrus peel notes, neatly integrated oak and a poised finish. Recommended.

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyard is rich and expansive from start to finish. Succulent red cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice and dried herbs flesh out in an ample, large-scaled Cabernet loaded with class and personality. There’s a lot of wine here.