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Argentina Reaches New Heights (Sep 2019)

Bright, dark red-ruby. Wild, musky scents and flavors of black raspberry, black pepper, olive tapenade, licorice and rocky salinity. Plush, savory and seamless; a mouthcoating Malbec-based blend with superb depth and palate presence. As concentrated as this wine is, it’s medium-bodied in the style of this cooler year but also remarkably nuanced and harmonious from…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Climens was tasted from two bottles, the first weirdly green. The second was an absolute joy. Well-defined on the nose, it offers lovely beeswax, honeysuckle, jasmine and yellow flowers. The palate is very pure with fine weight, quite tangy, lightly spiced with a pretty marmalade-tinged finish. A very commendable Sauternes in context of…

Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2004 La Lagune has a well-defined bouquet, something that I think was missing throughout the wines up until this date. Blackberry, briary, touches of rose petal and then later, hints of Lapsong Souchang and sous-bois all contribute to a very satisfying array of aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a mixture of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(55% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 15% petit verdot; all of the fruit was in by September 29 except for the cabernet) Medium ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, violet, bitter chocolate and licorice. Supple, sweet and suave, with dark berry, violet and licorice flavors enlivened by bright acidity. Firm tannic spine gives this wine a youthful…

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Ruby-red. Port-like aromas of black cherry, roasted currant and smoky oak. Extraordinarily silky and seamless in the mouth, with uncanny texture and great suavity. Extremely long on the finish, with the tannins buried in fruit. A remarkably lush, accessible La Chapelle whose sheer density of material should enable it to develop in bottle for 15…

Delivering Where It Counts: Meyney 1971–2017 (Jul 2020)

The 1995 Meyney has a rather nondescript bouquet that is severely lacking in fruit. The palate is better than the nose implies, featuring light, very minty red fruit, but it fades dramatically on the hollow finish. Tasted at a vertical at Château Meyney.