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Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

Inky purple. Smoke-accented aromas of dark fruit preserves, cured tobacco, sandalwood and potpourri, with a sexy vanilla quality gaining power with air. Fleshy and seamless in texture, offering deep cherry, blackcurrant and mocha flavors and a touch of anise. Shows excellent breadth and sweetness on the youthfully tannic finish, which leaves smoke and bitter cherry…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

(70% tempranillo and 30% graciano; aged for 19 months in new French oak): Bright purple. Sexy raspberry and blackberry aromas are complicated by hints of cracked pepper, vanilla and candied rose. Juicy dark berry and floral pastille flavors expand with air and pick up a smoky nuance, showing impressive depth and excellent focus. Spicecake and…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet that is wonderfully delineated and focused, presenting a quite intense mixture of red and black fruit tinged with sous-bois and light black truffle aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with bold tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Smooth in texture, it exhibits dark chocolate and…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; pH 3.5; 14% alcohol; 100 IPT) Glass-staining opaque purple-ruby. The nose initially shows heavy torrefaction notes of roasted coffee bean and cedar, but blackcurrant and spicy plum notes emerge slowly with aeration. Then smooth, ripe and light on its feet, with lively, nicely integrated acids framing and…