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Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005: The Grand Backbone Vintage

The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chaupin opens with pronounced tobacco, melted licorice, dried red fruits, forest floor and garrigue. Full-bodied and concentrated, the 2005 shows outstanding mid-palate intensity framed by firm tannins. This is not the most elegant expression of Chaupin, but the energy and drive are undeniable. Enjoy this beauty over the next five years.

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep red color. Positively explosive aromas of fresh cherry, redcurrant, blackberry and candied licorice (the most kirsch I’ve ever found in a wine, says Avril). Huge and mouthfilling, with serious weight but also excellent purity to the lush, powerful fruit. Deeply pitched dark chocolate and espresso add even more heft to the flavors, and roasted…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Rabaud-Promis is quite deep in colour, though not alarmingly so. The nose feels rather subdued compared to its peers with scents of mandarin and quince, though it needs more precision. The palate is fresh and viscous on the entry. Clementine, honey, brown sugar and light quince notes lead to a precise and persistent…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is in a great spot. Baked apple tart, spice, chamomile, marzipan, slate and chalk confer tremendous vibrancy and power throughout. Bright saline notes play off the natural exuberance of the year. The 2006 was spectacular on release. It is all that today, too.

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne Rosé has come together beautifully since I last tasted it. Time has released its inner concentration and layers. Exotic spice, blood orange, pomegranate, cedar and sweet spice tobacco lend notable flair, with the the Pinot very much front and center.

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Boüard is a rich, powerful wine. Dark red cherry, raspberry, mocha, licorice and rose petal all flesh out in this succulent, potent Montagne Saint-Émilion. This is an impressive debut. Even so, it will be interesting to see if this wine can be more nuanced in future vintages. Tasted two times.