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The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Boüard failed to match my expectations from barrel. It has a tightly wound bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and light rose petal aromas; I would have liked a little more vigor here. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, notes of dark chocolate and cedar wood lacing the black fruit, and just…

Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

The 1995 Brut Blanc des Millenaires shows just how compelling this often overlooked vintage can be. Layers of lemon, pastry spices, crushed rocks and savory herbs literally jump from the glass in this exquisite, perfumed, beautifully delineated Champagne. The 1995 shows lovely flavor complexity and nuance from its extended time in bottle, yet it also…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(made from mostly grand cru chardonnay grown in Oger, Melsnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and some from premier cru Vertus; L138210-3002126): Vivid gold. Heady aromas of candied citrus fruits, flowers, truffle, gingerbread and iodine, with an intensely smoky overtone. Deep, pungent and palate-staining, with the orchard and pit fruit flavors reaching every corner of the palate and…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Pungent, highly complex nose offers ginger, quinine, flowers and oyster shell. Bright, minerally and firm-edged, with exotic suggestions of mango, oran ge and pineapple. Wonderfully precise blanc de blancs, with terrific sweetness of fruit for a dry wine. Finishes long, juicy and nuanced, with a lingering spicy character. Delicious now but capable of gaining in…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Expressive, inviting aromas of plum, redcurrant, smoked meat, mocha, tobacco and cedar. Suave, juicy and bright, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic character to the flavors of redcurrant, minerals and dried flowers. Focused and primary. Lovely subtle claret with a juicy quality and lingering perfume.

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a delightful wine for the vintage and, as I wrote before, far superior to the previous one. Cropped at 59.4 hl/ha, this was one of the largest yields in living memory, refuting the idea that low yields equal better quality. The nose is very well defined with blackberry, raspberry and tobacco…