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Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Le Pergole Torte is a total stunner. Rich, sumptuous and layered, the 2020 possesses exceptional balance and class to burn. The 2020 is an opulent, racy and super-expressive wine with no hard edges and exceptional balance. Readers will find a super-classic Pergole Torte endowed with tremendous fruit purity. Dark-toned fruit, lavender, sage, graphite…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

The 2004 Dom Ruinart is just as brilliant and viscerally thrilling as it has always been. If anything, the 2004 has shut down considerably over the last six months. Tightly coiled and exceptionally beautiful, the 2004 boasts fabulous intensity, class and pedigree. The flavors are vibrant, chiseled and crystalline in their precision. Time in bottle…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Vivid yellow. Pungent, heady aromas of ripe pear, orange pith, brioche and toasty lees, with a stony nuance adding lift and urgency. Smooth and expansive on the palate, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors that pick up minerality and smokiness with air. Finishes sappy, penetrating and very long, with slow-building sweetness and a note…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2009 Lacoste-Borie is drinking beautifully. Open for business on the nose, it offers earthy, red berry fruit laced with cedar and subtle earthy tones. The palate is well balanced with fine-grained tannins, classic in style, yet the precocity of the growing season lends it a sense of rondeur towards the finish. Nothing amazingly complex…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Rauzan-Ségla has a dark core with some bricking on the rim. The bouquet is a little rustic, with soy, blackcurrant pastilles and melted tar, gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly drying tannins, red fruit mixed with soy, maybe just becoming a little acetic in its dotage, but there is…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1983 Rauzan-Ségla comes from a highly regarded vintage for Margaux, however I have encountered much better bottles previously. That said, I have never found Rauzan-Ségla to be up there with the likes of Palmer or Château Margaux. Mature in appearance with a tawny rim, the nose feels more diffuse than the 1990, soft in…