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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Mouton-Rothschild has always been a rather disappointing First Growth, and despite the perfect provenance of this ex-château bottle, its juxtaposition against the 1996 does it no favors. It has an earthy, loose-knit, tobacco-stained bouquet that never clicks out of second gear. The palate is similar, reasonably well balanced but lacking cohesion and, in…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Knockout smoky nose of cedar, leather, earth, truffle and game. Then rather tightly coiled and far less pliant than the nose would suggest. Strong acids contribute to this wine rather powerful structure. But I don’t find the flesh shown by the best wines from this vintage. Finishes quite firm, youthfully backward and…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(a blend of 78% cabernet sauvignon, 14% cabernet franc and 8% merlot; ph 3.8; IPT 60; 12.7% alcohol; 96% new oak; 91% selection for the grand vin): Bright red with a pale rim. Floral, aromatic nose offers scents of lavender, sour red cherry, strawberry jelly, vanilla, cinnamon and minerals. Sweet, suave and fresh, with lively…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Mouton-Rothschild can be variable from bottle to bottle. This example has an odd nose with a dab of wild mint. It just lacks a bit of class and feels clammed shut most of the time. The palate is medium-bodied, slightly chewy and has darker fruit compared directly with the 1989 Lafite-Rothschild. It coheres…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Whereas the 1989 Mouton-Rothschild opened at 67 Pall Mall failed to pass muster, this bottle tasted four months later was outstanding, many voting it the standout wine of the 1989 dinner. It has a quintessential Pauillac nose that gains more and more complexity with aeration: blackberry, pencil shavings, and freshly rolled tobacco, all wrapped up…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years (although it was a regular fixture during the 2000s). It is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Showing some signs of bricking on the rim, it has certainly matured with a little…