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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Impressive saturated ruby color. Pure, classic Pauillac aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate, menthol and flowers. Very intensely flavored, precise and penetrating, with an extremely primary flavor of cassis. Almost magically light on its feet owing to its rather strong acidity. A very young, extremely long wine with great tensile strength. May yet merit a…

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ The Bull, Charlbury, UK (Sep 2025)

The 1989 Pichon Baron is a wine that I have enjoyed many times, and it is just wonderful. Graphite and tobacco interlace on the intense, black-fruited nose that could only be born in Pauillac, old school in some ways and yet still brimming with vigour. The palate has fabulous balance, impressive weight and backbone, with…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Brane-Cantenac is very pretty and nuanced. The richness of the year comes through, and yet there is a good bit of freshness and energy as well to balance things out nicely. Brane-Cantenac offers a fine expression of the year in a wine that will drink well with minimal cellaring. Time in the glass…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2016 Brane-Cantenac has a wonderful bouquet. Pure blackberry, cedar and graphite scents blossom in the glass with exquisite delineation and harmony. The palate is medium-bodied with sculpted tannins and a sense of symmetry that the estate had not seen before. Very focused and mineral-driven towards the finish, this was quite simply the best Brane-Cantenac…

1999 and 1998 White Burgundies (Sep 2000)

Superripe aromas of dried apricot, flowers and licorice. Broad and stuffed with fruit, but could use a bit more precision and freshness. Still, this layered, rich wine will provide considerable early pleasure.

Oregon Pinot Noir: The Exceptional 2014s and Often Surprising 2013s (Dec 2016)

Brilliant red. Highly fragrant, expansive scents of ripe red berries, Asian spices, blood orange and candied rose; a smoky mineral element builds in the glass. Silky and seamless in texture, offering palate-staining raspberry and floral pastille flavors that show a striking interplay of depth and vivacity. Closes sweet, gently tannic and impressively long, delivering lingering…