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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have tasted three times in recent months. It is an excellent vintage for the Saint-Émilion estate. Refined on the nose, black plum mixes with wild strawberry, iron filings (borrowed from Pomerol?) and hints of blood orange, with mocha in the background. A lot is going on…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…

The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021 (Oct 2024)

The 1998 Marquis de Terme has a bold and assertive nose with what feels like more new oak than preceding vintages. It’s a little brash and, as such, denuding it of the terroir expression displayed by the 1989. The palate is again rich and toasty with plush black cherry and blueberry fruit. It’s quite Napa…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Clerc Milon has plenty of red berry fruit, kirsch, touches of liquorice and cassis. The palate is medium-bodied and fresher than the Armailhac with supple tannins and notes of white pepper and liquorice. This comes across surprisingly sweet and spicy on the finish, though it lacks the complexity and elegance of the very…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has been an inconsistent performer from bottle over the years. Retasting at the château at the 20-year stage, Nicolas Glumineau poured the wine at 9.30 am and then repoured the same bottle over dinner that same day. This proved how vital it is to afford the 2005s plenty of…