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New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Remarkably perfumed nose projects an exotic bouquet of deep, leesy yellow fruit, minerals, honeycomb, smoked meat and flowers, with Asian spices building expanding in the glass. Almost painfully concentrated, offering a surreal parade of orchard and pit fruits, smoked meat, toasted brioche and marrow braced by intensely salty, stunningly incisive minerality. Imagine a…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru offers a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, with background touches of wild mint and menthol, quite ripe and opulent. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent opening. Again, overtly fruit-driven with a sorbet-fresh finish. Maybe it needs a little more finesse and Pinoté…

Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Les Mémoires is a dark, fruited wine with blackberry and flint notes. Light in body and delicate, with a belt of austerity, the 2022 could benefit from decanting. It’s a firm, taut style that holds the mouth like a vice. A Cabernet Franc with real pinosity that requires time due to the combination…

Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Marginale is a round, welcoming broad style. The clay soils give mouthcoating tannins like melted chocolate akin to a good Pomerol. Of course, this is Cabernet Franc from the Loire with lifted florals, blackberries and raspberries. It is pure, elegant and finely textured with a powdery texture and long fragrant length similar to…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge has a lively brick bouquet with black cherries and raspberries. Fine delineation. The medium-bodied palate has a slightly candied entry and moderate depth with a slightly tart black cherry/citrus finish. Give it a year in bottle.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Echézeaux En Orveau comes from a cool microclimate, the last before you reach Musigny, though here the vines face south rather than east on shallow soils. This has a pleasant bouquet, initially quite bashful but gaining intensity in the glass, with crushed stone infusing the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, offering…