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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has another impressive bouquet from this flight with bolder yet delineated and vivacious red fruit that leaps from the glass. Real energy and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe pliant tannins that frame the mineral-driven red fruit. Plenty of vigour and tension throughout this Gevrey-Chambertin;…

Salvioni: Brunello di Montalcino 1985-2011 (May 2016)

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most immediate and one-dimensional wines in this tasting. There is good depth and intensity in the glass, but much less of the layered quality and nuance of the very best years. Still, the 2009 remains young, with little in the way of aromatic development. All things…

Brunello di Montalcino 2009 and 2008 Riserva (Jul 2014)

Good full red. Complex, scented nose offers pure aromas of redcurrant, truffle, mint, flint and violet. Juicy, silky and sweet, with highly nuanced flavors of aromatic herbs and flowers nicely complementing the crisp, bright red berry flavors. Not hugely dense but wonderfully expressive today, even if its firm tannic spine calls for patience. This is…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux is one of the wilder wines in this range. My sense is that a racking is probably in order here. There is plenty of intensity and persistence in the dark fruit, but the aromatics lack their customary focus, while the overall impression is of a wine that is not yet…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Good bright red. Red berries, coffee, mocha, game and sweet oak on the nose. Dense and oaky, showing a serious tannic structure and excellent density but a bit less fruit sweetness than the old-vines village wine. Just this side of heavy. The crop level here was healthy in 2012, noted Serafin.

Spotlight on Rosso di Montalcino (Oct 2019)

Baricci’s 2017 Rosso di Montalcino is a gorgeous wine that balances the natural richness of the year with the translucent energy and mid-weight structure that is so typical of the northern side of Montalcino. Bright, floral and nuanced, the 2017 offers plenty of near and medium-term appeal. Kirsch, hard candy, sweet spice and floral notes…