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A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Haut-Brion retains captivating floral scents on the nose, with peony, violet and plenty of incense combining with intense blackberry and blueberry fruit. It builds in the glass over ten minutes, only then revealing its underlying mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, offering more substance and a tad more grip compared directly…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Haut-Brion is powerful and explosive. At the same time, it is incredibly reticent. None of that should be of concern for readers who can wait. Black-toned fruit, gravel, incense, scorched earth and licorice all stain the palate, framed by impenetrable, imposing tannins. A vertical, explosive wine, the 2022 is going to need a…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Full medium ruby. Classic Hermitage aromas of dark berries and gunflint, with a suggestion of bitter chocolate. Concentrated, sweet and expansive, with inky and minerally components suggestive of the granite soil. Finishes with impressively ripe fruit flavor and huge, spreading tannins that take over the palate. From a crop level just under 30 hectoliters per…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

Soft, supple and delicate in the glass, the 2003 Vintage is super expressive today. Smoke, brioche, apple tart and spice notes flesh out in a resonant, impeccably layered Champagne loaded with personality. I can’t think of a young Krug Champagne that delivers this much pure pleasure at such a young stage in its life. The…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow. Powerful, complex bouquet evokes fresh peach, pear, floral honey, green almond and smoky minerals. Deep, palate-staining citrus and orchard fruit flavors show outstanding vivacity for a hot vintage, picking up ginger and talc notes with air. The strikingly long, sappy finish features zesty orange pith, smoky minerals and an echo of honeysuckle. I’d…