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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2005 Cheval Blanc has a very intense bouquet, conveying so much energy that it almost knocks you sideways. That strong marine influence remains, the aromatics have opened up since I last tasted it. The palate is medium-bodied with firm backbone, yet more pliant than previous bottles, offering dense black fruit laced with mint and…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Medium red-ruby. Plum, currant, brown spices, leather and tobacco leaf on the nose, along with some smoky oak. Distinctly firm and herbal but with a sweetly spicy quality to the flavors of cassis, lead pencil and tobacco leaf. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and a repeating herbal note.

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

((tasted from tanks, awaiting final blending. #1) Explosively floral, with remarkable purity and a strong licorice tone. #2: Spicier sample, with strong cherry pit and graphite on the palate and a bright, zesty quality. #3: Solid and chewy, with strong bitter cherry, dark chocolate and tobacco qualities (this batch gives the wine its skeleton). #4…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Brut Vintage is a tasty, straightforward Champagne to drink now and over the next handful of years. Orchard fruit, baked apple tart, pastry, dried flowers and chamomile all grace this open-knit, easygoing Champagne.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Mouton-Rothschild has always been a rather disappointing First Growth, and despite the perfect provenance of this ex-château bottle, its juxtaposition against the 1996 does it no favors. It has an earthy, loose-knit, tobacco-stained bouquet that never clicks out of second gear. The palate is similar, reasonably well balanced but lacking cohesion and, in…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Knockout smoky nose of cedar, leather, earth, truffle and game. Then rather tightly coiled and far less pliant than the nose would suggest. Strong acids contribute to this wine rather powerful structure. But I don’t find the flesh shown by the best wines from this vintage. Finishes quite firm, youthfully backward and…