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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has much more delineation and complexity than the 2018 Champ-Gain, and I might actually prefer the aromatics here to the 2019. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and crisp, displaying fine salinity on the finish and a hint of brioche and white chocolate on…

Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Opaque ruby. Displays powerful, highly perfumed aromas of black/blue fruit preserves, licorice, cola, baking spices and potpourri, along with an exotic suggestion of incense. Utterly stains the palate with intense blackberry, cherry, cassis, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that deliver a suave blend of weight and energy. Youthfully solid tannins add shape and grip to…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a blend of fruit from Aloxe-Corton (75%) and Pernand-Vergelesses (25%), a combination that works well in giving the wine balance. There’s quite a bit of phenolic intensity and youthful austerity here. Herbs, crushed rocks, graphite, mint and citrus confit build nicely. I very much admire the vibrancy here, even…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo Monprivato is gorgeous. Aromatic and gracious, the 2018 is silky, expressive and very nicely balanced. The 2018 is a bit light and ethereal, as Monprivato is these days, but the tannins are impeccably balanced and all the elements are beautifully put together. Crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and orange…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 2016 Croft Vintage Port has a taut bouquet at first that demands a good 20 or 30 minutes to get into its stride. It eventually reveals scents of blackberry, bilberry, chimney soot, clove, and just a hint of scorched earth in the background. The palate is spicy and vivacious on the entry: black fruit,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….