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2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

(based on 70% mourvedre, with roughly 10% each of syrah, grenache and counoise): Bright ruby. A drop-dead, room-filling bouquet evokes black raspberry liqueur, incense, anise and lavender, with smoke and herb overtones. Sappy and penetrating, offering deeply pitched but lively dark berry and cherry flavors and an exotic touch of candied flowers. Fine-grained tannins come…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin is a monumental achievement from the Perrin family. Its kaleidoscopic nose kicks off with hauntingly fragrant rosewater, forest floor, kirsch, tobacco, lavender, ripe blackberry and black cherry compote. Crushed rocks add yet another layer of complexity. This ambitious red masterfully balances finesse and intensity with marked flavor concentration,…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is well defined on the nose of apple blossom, orange pith, Japanese yuzu and light crushed stone aromas, one of the prettiest and most harmonious dry white aromatics you will find in this vintage. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a lovely waxy texture. Very expressive Sémillon here,…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is impressive, but also very closed today. That should not be much of an issue in a few years’ time, but readers should not plan on opening bottles any time soon. Today, the 2016 impresses for its depth and mineral-infused explosive energy. There is real depth to the grapefruit,…

Domaine A. Clape Cornas: 2012–1987 (Dec 2020)

The 2011 Clape Cornas shows much darker character than its 2012 sibling, offering powerful cassis, black currant and licorice flavors that unfurl very slowly with air. At almost a decade old, this is still on the youthful side, with round but present tannins adding framework and closing grip. Right now, I slightly prefer the elegance…

2023 Bordeaux: Signed, Sealed, Delivered

The 2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is every bit as impressive as it was en primeur, if not more so. Silky and intensely aromatic, the 2023 boasts magnificent purity from start to finish. Dark red-toned fruit, mocha, lavender, rose petal and exotic spice notes abound. Vinification with 60% stems exalts aromatic intensity and brilliance. The 2023…