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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a stronger performer than many of its peers in this vintage. Extremely well-defined on the nose, this exudes a sense of classicism, black fruit mixed with loam, autumn leaves and a whiff of the nearby estuary. The palate is medium-bodied with black fruit laced with spices, marmalade and cedar, binding together…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Clos du Marquis does not deliver the precision or sensuality that I observed in previous bottles. It still has earthy, cigar humidor and light black fruit scents, but this is just a bit sullen at the moment. The palate is conversely sweet on the entry with plush black cherry and blueberry fruit. It's…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Clos du Marquis is powerful and dense from the outset. Inky blue/purplish fruit, licorice, spice, lavender and licorice are all pushed forward in this decidedly plush, voluptuous Saint-Julien. Firm tannins give the wine explosive energy that carries through to the persistent finish. From barrel, the 2015 was much more forward, but from bottle…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2016 Gruaud Larose has a beautiful nose that is much more pure than the vintages from the noughties. It’s well-defined with blackberry, blueberry and crushed violet scents. This is much more floral in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, supple and poised, with a gentle build in the mouth, but, to use…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Montrose has an attractive bouquet, mainly red fruit, cedar and undergrowth, relatively fresh with satisfying “attack”. Plenty of energy here. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, fine depth and a keen line of acidity with a sense of completeness and harmony on the finish. This has great promise. Excellent. Tasted blind…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Montrose is without question one of the standout wines of the vintage. Black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and lavender are some of the many aromas and flavors that open up in the glass. But the 2014 is a much deeper wine than just a bunch of descriptors can conjure. In 2014, Montrose is…