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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru comes from 0.11 hectares of 80-year-old vines that yield two barrels (one new barrel and the other tailored to the size of the crop). It has a very intense bouquet of citrus fruit, yellow flowers, orange blossom, crushed limestone and white peach – a nose that takes no prisoners. The…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru presents a complex bouquet with superb mineralité and precision, though it takes several minutes to hit its stride. The new oak becomes increasingly prominent with aeration until it shrouds the terroir expression. The palate is very well balanced, powerful, citric, delivering presence and weight in the mouth. Muscle and grip…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Chablis Blanchots Grand Cru has a complex, quite beguiling bouquet with scents of dried honey, acacia, pressed flowers and orange blossom that unfold in the glass and attain quite a high level of intensity. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, taut and poised with hints of spice,…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Bright, light lemon-yellow. Discreet, precise aromas of lemon zest and metallic minerality lifted by a floral topnote. Offers lovely inner-mouth tension thanks to racy lemony acidity but also shows a rather exotic banana note today. Still, this strict, backward wine is less harmonious at present than the premier crus at this address, finishing with a…

Vinous Table: Mudan Tempura – Taipei, Taiwan (Feb 2025)

The 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Blanc from de Vogüé, which I would have last tasted in barrel with former winemaker François Millet, is quite powerful on the nose, in my mind, curiously Côte de Beaune-like in style. Given the growing season in question, I would have liked more tension and -mineralité_. The palate has a…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve knocks it out of the park with rosewater, kirsch, garrigue, tobacco, white pepper, melted licorice and a flicker of ivy. On the full-bodied palate, rich flavor concentration is masterfully balanced by vibrant freshness, resulting in a sensation of complete harmony. What’s so striking about this Rayas is how it lays bare…