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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby. Highly perfumed nose is brimming with blackcurrant, blackberry and violet; shows an almost fruit cocktail quality. Then smooth, dense and lush, with noteworthy intensity to its fresh black fruit flavors complicated by stony minerality and exotic herbs. A wonderfully seamless and concentrated wine with superb balance, very smooth tannins and an extremely long…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium ruby-red. Very ripe but subdued aromas of dark berries, black cherry, minerals, woodsmoke, mocha and smoky underbrush. Silky on entry, then utterly smooth and seamless in the middle, with outstanding concentration and lift to the berry, tobacco and hot rock flavors. Finishes with utterly noble tannins and outstanding, slowly building length and lingering perfume….

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly remains a glorious example from this Pessac-Léognan estate and confirms my recent encounters. Blueberries and cassis scents soon join black cherries, blood orange and iris flower notes on the nose. It skillfully translates the precocity of the growing season, though there is just a touch of alcohol that blurs the edges compared…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a stronger performer than many of its peers in this vintage. Extremely well-defined on the nose, this exudes a sense of classicism, black fruit mixed with loam, autumn leaves and a whiff of the nearby estuary. The palate is medium-bodied with black fruit laced with spices, marmalade and cedar, binding together…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Talbot is aromatically quite expressive, but less available on the palate, where it is quite closed down. Time in the glass brings out a host of sweet tobacco, smoke, leather, cedar, mint, licorice and red-toned fruit. In two tastings, Talbot gave the impression it is going to need at least a few years…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Talbot has an airy, well-defined bouquet of blackberry, cedar and light minty aromas, perhaps more Pauillac than Saint-Julien. The medium-bodied palate delivers gritty tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a graphite-infused finish. This is very fine for Talbot, a Saint-Julien hewn in a typically classic style. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.