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Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 La Romanée Grand Cru has a beautiful bouquet with pure redcurrant and cranberry fruit, deftly integrated oak, laser-like precision and focus. This is Pinot Noir at its apotheosis. The palate is medium-bodied with mineral-laden fruit that presently hides behind a new oak veneer. This feels polished, perhaps a little too much, but that’s…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

In most vintages, there are three distinct cuvees that make up the final blend for the flagship Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, but in 2012 there are just two. The first cuvee, from the top of the vineyard, is intensely tannic and structured. Floral notes lead to dark red cherries and crushed rocks in a wine…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

(I tasted two components, the first from compact bedrock and the second from fractured rock, mostly at the top of the holding, then an approximation of the final blend; there is no longer a young-vines cuvee and no more Pommard 1er Cru bottling as the youngest vines here are now 27 years old; 12 hectoliters…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(vinified with 75% whole clusters; 90% new oak): Bright, dark red. Reduced aromas of black raspberry and licorice accented by spices. Rich, round and voluminous yet light on its feet owing to intense minerality and lively acidity; offers complex flavors of black raspberry, black cherry, redcurrant, spices, flowers and crushed rock. An element of peppery,…

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru needs a bit of encouragement on the nose that is quite sullen and later almost reluctantly springs scents of blackcurrant, allspice and light iris flower. The palate is well-balanced with slightly chewy tannins. There is a taut line of acidity, and the palate is structured with perhaps some…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good deep red with ruby tones. Ripe, deep perfume of black cherry, dark berries, crushed rock, wild herbs and game lifted by a peppery topnote. Very concentrated, intense, taut wine with terrific volume and inner-mouth energy. A captivating floral quality contributes another dimension. Explosive on the back end, saturating the mouth and exciting the salivary…