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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a generous bouquet, the discreet stem addition lending an attractive leafiness that complements the brambly red fruit. More undergrowth scents emerge with time. The palate is silky-smooth on the entry, very plush but controlled, and despite the opulence, terroir floods through this Bonnes-Mares, which fans out wonderfully on the…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Echézeaux En Orveau Grand Cru is quite “strict” on the nose, a little taciturn at first, offering more black than red fruit and undergrowth and light granitic aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and heightened acidity. There’s quite a lot of finesse here, though it needs a little more grip and…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has a potent nose: think of grandmother’s potpourri you smelled in her old house. It almost overwhelms that red fruit behind it. The palate is well-balanced with pure red cherry, wild strawberry, and finely-knit tannins. It’s one of the more elegant Cortons tasted with a touch…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, the 0.83-hectare monopole of the domaine, was picked three times. It was showing a bit of reduction on the nose when I visited. The rounded palate features lime cordial, tinned apricot and plenty of passion fruit and pineapple notes toward the finish. This is a…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has a more fruit-driven bouquet than Mallard’s Corton Renard: plummy, mulberry and light iris flower scents unfold in the glass, impressive in terms of presence. The palate is medium-bodied with thick, juicy tannins. This is quite a bold and fleshy Corton, though it feels a little…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru does not fully deliver the complexity of its peers, though there is plenty of red and blue fruit, strawberry wine gums and lavender. There are some Brettanomyces here, a bit sauvage. But I’m still drawn to the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with an almost creamy texture, brambly red fruit…